FASHION SHOW

Energy and ideas: Italian attitude, English traditions and the knitwear of Ireland. Knits and tailoring have a sporty edge, always on the go. Bonding gives structure, knitwear techniques are pushed to bring a point of view. The positivity of ICEBERG is everywhere: these are city-smart pieces perfect for being worn and loved.

“The heart of ICEBERG is in knitwear, and it’s in my heart too. This is a collection that’s all about the different stitches, techniques and treatments that we love, mixed with tailoring that’s both traditional and playfully subverted.” James Long, creative director of ICEBERG.

A grey rib knit has a spread collar, almost as wide as a sailor’s neck. It’s matched with tailored pants that look straight from menswear, held in place with a mock-croc belt. Ribbed knit dresses have a spread collar, drop waist and a frilled skirt of box pleats. Worn over a check poplin ruffled miniskirt, they have extra layers and movement.

Check tailoring has the right level of slouch and fit, with a faux leather-trimmed collar to add edge. A ruffle-front dinner shirt is so fine, it’s almost sheer. A men’s double-breasted check suit is worn under a coat bonded with poplin, cut with raw edges to subvert tradition. Tailoring comes in three tones: plays on blue, pinkish grey, and tweedy mustard.

ICEBERG has experimenting with knit since the beginning, like oversized rib knit of bold nautical stripes. It has wool panels over the shoulders to create contrast and sporty energy, its rollneck collar rising high lined with faux sheepskin. Meanwhile oversized intarsia wool check coats are bonded onto faux leather to give structure, with piped edges, worn over a tumble of ruffles from a poplin frilled knee-length skirt that’s punctured with eyelets.

Blown-up check sweaters have dropped stitches to give a London posh/punk finish, worn with a check tweed mini. White cable knit sweaters are broken by broad red sporty stripes, worn over a shirt with a collar punctured by eyelets. The same shirt is worn under a cinched zip-up biker jacket, bonded with a contrast colour on the inside. Meanwhile faux leather jackets are so lightweight, they’re almost shirts.

It's all about super-wearable, super-desirable pieces, like a wool city coat bonded with check poplin, or a crackle faux leather jacket that shows colour the more its crunched. Cardigan jackets are bonded for structure, worn with slouchy yet specific jeans and sneakers. Tailored pants are important throughout, cut drop-waisted, without a waistband with inverted pleats trimmed in satin, or trimmed with faux leather piping down the seam.

Knits are for every day, and they also make a statement. To finish, two oversized knit cardigan coats are scaled so large, the attached scarf trails on the floor, almost like a bridal gown.

Triple-buckle mock-croc sandals have a mid-heel, while flat boots are beautifully easy to wear. Mock-croc belts run throughout, while supersized mock-croc bags carry everything from day to night.

Backstage Gallery