(Milan, September 20 th ) – The fairy tale continues in Creative Director James Long’s celebration of women, taking inspiration from the poem Warning by Jenny Joseph . SS20 brings with it a feeling of lightness matched with a female confidence that comes from being comfortable in your own skin.
An “i” tulle print maxi dresses take our Sylph muse from sea to land, glistening like water over opalescent fish scale sequin trousers. White armed rash-guard dresses are elongate with soft pleated fin fronts or kept equally short, sporty and leggy in body con tulle again over sequin. Neon yellow luminescent accents cover white sports tailoring, the silhouette again softened by net.
Purple sequins cover single-breasted jacket and matching swim knickers or are worn with a tonal satin hoodie. A sporty synchronised swimmer dress wins the Gold.
The collection shows in the amazing location of Bagni Misteriosi, a restored pool of the Thirties in the heart of Milan. The models walk under the sound created by Siobhan Bell dj set and the live performance of British-Nigerian artists, the Queen of afro-beat, Tiwa Savage, presenting her new single “4999”.
ICEBERG grunge mermaid’s adventurous spirit plays out in a new “i ” hounds’ tooth where 2 pieces (a single breasted with narrow trousers classic suit or a Bermuda shorts an T surfer’s suit), a jacquard Lil Kim knitted swimsuit and tulles are a crash of red, pink and yellow worn with matching accessories. A classic ICEBERG cartoon sweater is nonchalantly layered.
Now almost fully submerged in the City, looks take on a tougher edge with shell pink fins on black and a black sequin swimsuit wornunder a tulle bomber. Her hair and make-up takes clues from architecture with graphics referenced from the design work of Zaha Hadid.
When I am an old woman I shall wear purple
With a red hat which doesn’t go and doesn’t suit me.
And I shall spend my pension on brandy and summer gloves
And satin sandals, and say we’ve no money for butter.
Warning by Jenny Joseph
Going underground, going underground.
Well, let the boys all sing and let the boys all shout for tomorrow.
(London, June 8th – 2019) There is an air of positive rebellion at ICEBERG for Spring-Summer 2020 where youth tribes and cultures meet and combine in hyper colour and monochrome. Where, in the imagination of James Long, the Punks of Kings Road hang out with the Sloanes and Hoorays of Knightsbridge (the spiritual home of the original ICEBERG London store) and South Kensington Goths.
Proudly kicking-off with ICEBERG x PETER BLAKE* who’s instantly recognisable riot of pop-art graphics cover shirt and trouser full looks, mini dresses and easy knits. His seminal Babe Rainbow and Amerika artworks (a technically intricate sweater of bird’s-eye intarsia, jacquard and embroidery), hearts, rainbows and Mod target unify across clothes and accessories and are reflected in see-now-buy-now ICEBERG x Linda Farrow shades.
A boyish Rocker zipped sleeve jacket and matching bondage trousers flash and unzip to reveal the palest candy flesh pink for men and women. And, for those who prefer Bauhaus or Iggy crooning “I love your hair” in their headphones there are navy on navy sports tailoring with tonal shirts. Or black with black tracksuits and a chic, gender fluid take on fishnet comes in the form of vests and maxi skirts. Name belts, Vibram sole trainers, trouser legs, necks and ears are adorned and drip heavy with chains: Le Goth Sportif.
The high shine of a Mod “tonic” suit morphs into silver zip jackets, Bermuda shorts and bungee tied trousers. A tee shirt is bound tightly with the same integral ropes. For the ICEBERG woman Tonal Punky Flower orchids climb over chic tailoring in fluro primaries on white. Worn with crisp shirts and a matching tie she is the Mod in modern.
Colour blocked fluid maxi looks in satin, chiffon and crepes for her and Cupro wash-effect silk joggers and matching bomber in a soft turquoise for him. The Loony Tunes Drip all-over print is well, all over easy fit shirts, short shorts and sweaters. ICEBERG Bubble Writing in pink and silver or teal and mustard is a camouflage for urban warriors looking for their Promised Land.
*ICEBERG launches the first in a series of on-going collaborations under the banner: ICEBERG ART DENIM
For PRE-FALL 2019 Creative Director James Long takes the ICEBERG family with him to the Italian Alps.
A blizzard of crazy puzzle graphics slice across a classic twill shirt dress paired with a mash-up fair isle knit or are seen as a silky shirt layered over an acid green fine knit roll-neck – the graphics then doubled up on a brightly printed Piumini. A punk-grunge mini kilt in tartan is inlaid with logos, tied with a studded belt and topped with the iconic ICEBERG crew. Alternatively stand out on the slopes in lustrous ICEBERG red total looks consisting of a coat, jumpers, joggers and accessories.
Apres ski is sporty yet sophisticated with sparkling sequins drifting over jacquards, jackets and 2 piece sets.
For the ICEBERG woman more adept at climbing the corporate ladder there are new tailored pieces in technical fabrics with logo go-faster stripes or stripes which cross slalom like in red and white on navy relaxed trouser shapes and fluid high split dresses. Low key black on black tailoring mixes matt with shine and optic piping.
A tone on tone bandana print patchworks tartan shirts and oversized shirt dresses or glows on a tie neck ladylike blouse worn with matching trousers. Embroidered and glossed bandana denims hang tough with shrugged on hand drawn punk-ski Mickey oversized cardigans knitted to suggest being well-loved and much worn. Jeans are high waisted, trucker jackets are borrowed from the boys but a strapless denim dress remains demure with an integral poplin shirt.
New accessories include a knitted ankle boot with mountaineer laces, nylon gaiters, a smaller ICEBERG tote in glassy leathers and a knit strap marsupial. Colours are pop culture bright: green, red, yellow and blue calmed by navy and black.
(Milan, September 21st) – The area of Emilia Romagna, where ICEBERG originated and is still based, is the centre of racing. The adrenaline rush of fast cars, boats and motorbikes, becomes part of the daily lifestyle.
Creative Director James Long takes inspiration from this Italian Motor City, crashing textures and fabrics together, fusing them with ICEBERG’s renowned high-spec techniques. Skirts are a car-kit of logo print twill and lacquered sequin panels. Piped dynamic lines and zip racetrack routes spiral full looks and twist the necks of optic white poplin shirting.
The high-gloss paintwork of a black vintage 1957 Jaguar translates to epoxy mimicking sequined full looks topped with go-faster logoed stripes in enamel colours. The catalyst for the colour pallet is from the Gerani family owned vintage car collection and a motorbike selection curated by “Ruote Da Sogno. The Red of a Lancia. Silver from a Porsche and the Light Green of an Alfa Romeo.
Hand paint ICEBERG graphics in neon across ARAI crash helmets. These graphics also inform glossy, glazed bags. Logo no logo sleeves open to reveal flesh or ICEBERG fonts. Lacquer Air Diffusers become belts.
Sports Gladiator sandals and high laced boots power winners in a fast paced city where men and women dart between cars and bikes – such as the unique MV Agusta 750 America (1975) created for Giacomo Agostini the legendary Italian World Champion – crossing the finish line in formidable ICEBERG style.
Lancia B24 (1955), Lancia Astura (1939), Fiat 500 (1963), Porsche 356 (1958), Alfa Romeo Giuletta Spring Speciale (1961), Jaguar (1957), Maserati (1956)
Laverda 750 (1971), Kawasaki 500 Mach II (1973), Ducati 250 Scrambler (1971), Norton Max (1957), Triumph 120 R Boneville (1970) Kawasaki HIB 500 (1972), MV Agusta 750 America (1975).
Via Melzi D’Eril, 29
21, Via Sant’Andrea
Hôtel de la Salle
21, Rue de l’Université
ICEBERG hit London with Creative Director James Long’s remix of iconic technical knits in modern casual silhouettes: an ode to the past with a vision of the future.
Pillaging the Trophy Room at ICEBERG’s head office James fuses an Italian love of F1 with Italo pop while giving it an energetic, dance meets football London attitude where the cartoon is King, the logo is Queen and everyone is part of the winning team. Deep-fried glitched graphics are a new, often hand drawn or collaged take on Peanuts, Joe Cool and tone on tone logos.
Triple printed denim looks sparkle and plastic-coated gloss knit ICEBERG logos dazzle opponents off the sports arena. Football shirts affiliate you with Milan, London or New York.
A tailored jacket made easy with snap fastenings for both men and women worn over a classic white shirt with a discreet self-colour logo woven into the fabric. Warhol flowers dance across satins and 3D knit.
High energy sports drink colours of blue, green, yellow, pink and red shout Viva Italia as the squad walk straight off the catwalk and onto The Strand, passing by Somerset House, Trafalgar Square and ending at Piccadilly in a positive act of rebellion.
Taking clues from iconic ICEBERG ad campaigns Creative Director James Long cut ‘n’ shuts knit, musical eras and key points within ICEBERG’s history to make a collection filled with attitude: “I’m fresh I don’t need to impress”.
Made in Italy but with a London spirit the ICEBERG family comes alive on the catwalk in an explosion of youthful energy and colour. Mixing fabrics, a classic parka blazes with plasticised knit logos, an overcoat exits with a new Mickey Mouse graphic while full knitted looks sparkle with sequins.
Intarsia multi logo down jackets have structured sleeves, leather is studded, double denim, jacquards and hand knit jumpers are three or more graphics sliced into the one garment.
Sneakers, sock trainers and hiking shoes with contrast laces are perfect for pounding the city scape. Stiff ICEBERG shoppers in pop colours push you through the crowds as you strut your own personal catwalk.
The public show (happening directly after the main catwalk presentation) was inspired by this idea of making the city your own. Models walk between via Sant’Andrea, via Montenapoleone, Piazza San Babila, Piazza Duomo, Piazza Castello and Piazza XXV Aprile, through all the iconic symbols of Milan dressed in ICEBERG the iconic symbol of positive rebellion.
Enjoy the photo diary and get inspired!