FALL/WINTER 2013-2014 WOMEN’S COLLECTION

The future speeds forward drawing force from the past.

Iceberg opens the show with an iconic item: it’s the intarsia knit sweater designed by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac that Giuliana Marchini Gerani has on in the 1983 “People Today” ad campaign shot by Oliviero Toscani. Namely, if the roots are solid a tree lives to be a hundred.

This collection reflects the serious intention to reposition the brand in a natural context all about clean design, distinct volume and cut. The watchword is knit, which accounts for 80% of the clothing (even when not visibly evident). Knit fabric variously in the form of lining, material, detailing. Abstract effects which start out as stripes, then become print motifs, embroideries, braidings.

In a mock “drip painting” game, knit takes on a playful pictorial flair as if a canvas to fill with a palette of primary colors: white, black, blue, yellow. The result is immediate, the sensation almost childlike.

Meanwhile the glam element is clear, the woman quick and sensual. New bourgeois-chic styles: knee-length pencil skirts, mannish cigarette pants to wear with ultra highheels. A fresh take on shapes: strong shoulders, upside-down trapezes, multi-level rectangles.